I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: I don’t know why people hate Milan so much. It’s always sunny and warm (in September at least), the food is delicious, the clothes are exciting and the parties are fun. And this season was no different. In fact it was all that and much more. It was entertaining. And it was emotional. If I didn’t know any better I’d say I was pregnant because I cried twice in public in less than a week. The first time was at the opera. I was invited by my hosts Max Mara to attend the Condenast event ‘One Night, One Voice’ and watch a performance by tenor Vittoria Grigolo. I’ve never seen anyone give a more intense and touching encore rendition of ‘O Sole Mio’. I find it quite a corny song – my grandfather was a big fan of the genre – but the tears were rolling and everyone got up for a standing ovation, including Anna Wintour in the front row. In fact I think she singlehandedly stretched Vittorio’s stage presence by half an hour because she could not stop asking for bis numbers.
My second cry-fest occurred during the Moschino show. At first there was a rumor they would not be showing at all and just do a party to celebrate their 30th anniversary. But the invites were sent out and a huge spectacle was underway. They recruited old supermodels like Pat Cleveland, Jodie Kidd and Erin O’Connor, revisited iconic looks from the 80s and 90s, sent out the models in good-vs-evil pairs and had Gloria Gaynor perform all-time favorite “I will survive” at the finale. When Jodie Kidd lost one of her gold hoop earrings, she yanked out the other one and threw it in the audience. That’s pretty much when I lost it. I couldn’t handle it. The laughs, the cheers, people’s pure joy, it was the sort of entertainment we seldom get in fashion! Why can’t we have more of this??? People would actually remember the shows for weeks, months, if not years!
Now, enough with the crying. I didn’t come to Milan for a sop story. I was there on official business with Max Mara. As one of their ambassadors I attended both the Max Mara and Sportmax shows, took some intimate portraits of spokesperson Maria Giulia Prezioso at her brother’s apartment and shot a very special Look of the Week with original pieces from the 70s archives mixed with the current collections. Both shows were beautiful as usual. Max Mara was classic and minimal. There was a definite nod to the 90s with calf length, camel, cashmere dresses, lean silhouettes and hooded jackets, but also a little wink to the past and to Italy by introducing wool headscarves. I loved the concept behind the Sportmax collection. The designer took the polka dot as inspiration and either enlarged them barely recognizable or shrunk them. She placed them irregularly and erased them with sheer silk. The whole story was refined, elegant and a little bit edgy here and there. My favorite look was the all yellow polka dot pants and sweater (which unfortunately is not being produced. Boo….).
But there was a lot more greatness last week. Fendi was strong with its paneled sheer layering in all shades of pink and blue and I loved that the bags were worn like furry pooches a la Paris Hilton. Ennio Capasa came back to show in Milan after twenty-two years in Paris and did what he does best: asymmetry and a lot of black suiting. My favorite Italian, Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented another amazing, super wearable collection and announced some very exciting news last week! Did you hear he is the new Creative Director at Rochas? I couldn’t be more happy for him (and for me haha!). Jil Sander was expectedly simple and safe but had some surprising moments. I instagrammed the mysterious black/grey/white print for example. And I am also obsessed with the girl who opened the show: Maartje Verhoef. Too beautiful for words. I went to the Prada re-see, which is a strong contender for the show because you get to touch and feel everything in person. I didn’t see Marni either but like Prada it was on-brand and exciting. They are the kind of shows you look forward to and never disappoint, even if you won’ t wear the clothes.
But perhaps my proudest moments were my runs in the Public Gardens across the street from the Principe and my visit to the Duomo. Sometimes you just have to say Basta!